Day 1: Meet at the car park in Täsh early in the morning (approx. 6.30 am). We take the cable car to the Klein Matterhorn and start our stay on the Matterhorngletscher at 3817m.
We start on the west summit of the Breithorn, 4164 m, then over the large Verra glacier towards the Ayas guide hut. Picnic, nap and overnight stay at the Ayas Guide Hut.
Possibility to summit the Pollux, 4092 m, before returning to the refuge.
Overnight at the Guide d'Ayas refuge, 3400 m.
Day 2: Early departure for the ascent of the Castor, 4223 m, tapered ridge and steep slope for this climb which is probably one of the most beautiful in the Alps.
Descent by the East ridge of the Castor to reach the Felik pass and finally the Quintino Sella hut 3585 m.
Lunch at the refuge.
Night at the Quitino Sella hut on half board basis.
Day 3: Departure on the incredible Felik glacier then the Lys glacier to reach the foot of the Lyskamm Naso. Depending on the level and conditions, we climb the Lyskamm Naso, 4272m or the much more difficult Lyskamm East, 4533m.
We reach the Gnifetti hut, 3625m for a snack.
We spend the night at the Gnifetti hut on a half-board basis.
Day 4: It's 4000m day in the pocket! We start with the Pyramide Vincent, 4215m. From the summit we cross to the Punta Giordani, 4046 m, then onto the Corno Nero, 4321 m, then the Lüdwighöhe, 4342 m, Punta Parrot, 4434 m and the Signalkuppe, 4553 m and the Margarita hut where we finish our day with a good snack.
We spend the night in the Margarita hut with half board.
Day 5: Time to go back! We leave Margarita to climb the last 4000m, the Zumsteinspitze, 4562m, which offers a view of the Po plain and Macugnaga, it is the second highest summit of Monte Rosa. We descend to the Grenz Gletcher, a long, long glacier! We stop for lunch at the Monte Rosa hut and then head back to the Gornergrat to catch the train. At Rotenboden, another train takes us directly to Zermatt, then Täsh to reach the car park.
D + : 250m
D- : 2000m
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