Trad climbing *****... at home!

Oct 31, 2019
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Trad climbing is fashion and that's a good point, we are very trendy at the office...

This week, mountain guides will take you on a discovery tour of a mountain with itineraries well known from hikers and climbers, for its majestic itineraries in the face of the Casset: for the 2nd time this week, I have chosen Dame Tournette!
But it is not for these classic routes that we decided to take camalots and cracks gloves, but to discover a new limestone jewel, spotted last winter by Thibaut, in the Montagne de Cotagne and equipped this fall with Jérémy....
Foresight: 250m, 7a max

After fifteen minutes of approach (departure from the quarry), we reach the foot of почему. It is a very special feeling of serenity to be back in autumn, on this slope so popular with ski tourers in winter. The colours of autumn, the calm, and the clicking of camalots!

The route begins with two easy lengths on a typical Aravis base, a well sculpted limestone with protruding flutes and lunules, for an estimated rating of 5a and 4c. After crossing a small grassy slope to the right, we reach the first length (6a) of the crack, a length that awakens the arms! And let's go for almost 200m of festivities...

For this 45m length, the hoisting of the bag is an effective help, the wall starts to stiffen...
Two starting spits have been installed to indicate the way and protect the start.

Arrived at R4, an easy length of transition in grade 3 leads us to R5 (only one stud that can easily be reinforced with a camalot). A short crossing to the left and we switch to the other side of the ridge to R6. The real difficulties begin here: a well sloping profile, in a superb yellow and sculpted rock! Rulers, water drops and clean cracks, the explosive ingredients for a detonating climb! 

The lengths follow one another in this grey and now wider crack, where it is sometimes necessary to know how to look for the holds outside....
They do not exceed 25 to 30m, allowing a visual and permanent communication between the leader and the insurer, and limiting the swing of the hoisting bag: well seen the openers!

From now on, camalots #1, #2 and #3 will be our essential elements: double game strongly recommended! And a #4 for optimal comfort 

The feet get hot, the forearms swell, and we leave our epidermis quota in the fight with this crack... we feast!

The generous nature allows us to provide effective and regular protection, using the camalots in ways that are sometimes unexpected:)
Don't forget, the Tournette always has its share of surprises in store! 

The end of the track lies down a little and we end up with easier lengths in grade 6a/6b.....
We abseil down a corridor to the left of the track to the bags and in ten minutes we are back to the car.

A beautiful day with friends, looking forward to the next.....

By Sophie Moritz, with Franck Sportiello and Thibaut ICard