Programme / Itinerary:
Day 1: Ascent to the Gnifetti Hut (3,625m)
Carpooling is recommended for the Val Gressoney in Italy from Annecy or Chamonix via the Mont Blanc Tunnel.
We reach the foot of the Italian side of the Monte Rosa massif. We take the Staffal cable cars up to the Indren Glacier (3,275m). A glacier traverse allows us to quickly reach the Mantova refuge (3,418m) and then the Gnifetti refuge (3,625m).
We spend the rest of the day relaxing at the refuge, acclimatising to the altitude whilst practising or revising crampon use and roping techniques near the refuge.
Elevation gain: 370m
Half-board at the Gnifetti Refuge.
Day 2: Ascent of Pointe Zumstein (4,563m)
We ascend the gently sloping Lys Glacier to the Col du Lys (4,152m), visible from the Zermatt side of the Monte Rosa massif. We pass close to the Margherita Hut (Europe’s highest refuge: 4,554m) to reach the Col Gnifetti (4,455m), from where we take the south-east ridge
of Pointe Zumstein to the summit (4,563m). We descend via the same route. Depending on conditions, we may extend or adapt the day’s itinerary by climbing the Ludwigshöhe (4,343m).
Elevation gain: 938m - Elevation loss: 938m
Half-board at the Gnifetti refuge - Lunch: Picnic or meal at the refuge depending on the schedule and weather
Day 3: Ascent of Pyramide Vincent (4,215m)
We ascend the Glacier du Lys once again, before turning right towards Pyramide Vincent and its summit (4,215m). We enjoy magnificent views of the eastern face of the Monte Rosa massif. We descend back down to the refuge.
If necessary, we continue with the exercises from Day 1 – learning or revising crampon use and roping techniques – then head to the ski lifts near Pointe Indren (3,258 m), which take us back to Staffal.
Elevation gain: 590 m - Elevation loss: 970 m
Lunch: Picnic or meal at the refuge, depending on the schedule and weather
Return to Chamonix then Annecy in the mid-afternoon.
