Day 1 — Ascent to the Torino Hut & warm-up (acclimatisation / refresher session)
Meet on the Italian side (Courmayeur / La Palud), then take the cable car up to Punta Helbronner and on to the Torino Hut.
Depending on conditions and your ability, there may be an opportunity to undertake an acclimatisation hike (e.g. crossing the Aiguilles d’Entrèves) to practise roping up, glacier walking and abseiling.
Settling in, briefing (weather, timing, route strategy), equipment preparation, overnight stay in the refuge.
Day 2 — Ascent of the Dent du Géant (4,013 m) & abseiling descent
Early morning departure from the refuge: crossing the Col du Géant glacial plateau, then a gradual approach towards the Gengiva.
Approach terrain: relatively “slippery” glacier, followed by a more alpine ascent (mixed/rock) leading to the foot of the route, often called the “dining room / breakfast spot” (platform at the base of the slabs).
Granite climbing: slabs and cracks, with a key section that can reach ~5c free, but often climbed A0 using fixed ropes (physically demanding, “gym-style” climbing at altitude).
Summit: the Dent du Géant comprises two very close peaks, the highest of which is around 4,013–4,014 m (depending on sources/guidebooks).
Descent: return via the breach then abseils (often 3 long pitches depending on equipment/rope) down to the base of the face, then back to the Torino.
Typical time estimates: approximately 4–6 hours for the ascent from the Torino, depending on conditions
Details
Summit: Dent du Géant, ~4,013 m
Route: standard route / SW face (fixed ropes)
Difficulty: AD with rock sections up to IV and an A0 option on fixed ropes (or approx. 5c free climbing depending on variations/conditions).
Terrain: glacier + mixed terrain + granite (slabs/cracks)
Descent: equipped abseils on the south face
Recommended period & conditions
The route is typically climbed in summer, but the condition of the approach (snow/rock, bergschrund) varies greatly; you must adapt and set off early.
Certain seasons/dry conditions may increase the risk of rockfall on the approach/couloirs: the guide will adjust the route and timing.
D'autres courses de haute-montagne :
Le Lifting du Roi de Siam
Voie Rébuffat Baquet à l'Aiguille du Midi
